Gluing fingerboard

ayer

I warm both surfaces when gluing a fingerboard.  Which is more desireable,  to brush the glue on the fingerboard or on the maple ?  I used to put the glue on both surfaces,  but that made it very difficult to remove.

auction

I'll probably get drummed off this site for the following- I modify Titebond or Elmers  with alcohol, and fingerboards fly off without a splinter, maybe a little piece sometimes.

I start with ordinary shellac alcohol, add ca 10% water to the alcohol i'm going to add to the glue. I start with about half ounce glue, which will wind up a volume of ca 5X.  The water added to the alcohol is the only adhesion in the mix, the alcohol combines with the rest of the glue and neutralizes its adhesive ability. If you used 100% alcohol you would have very little adhesion (there is always water present), and if you added 20% water you would have an increase in adhesion. Start by always adding a volume of alcohol ca no more than half the volume of the glue with vigorous stirring. If you think you stirred enough, stir some more. Keep doing this until you have a clear golden solution. This solution is no longer soluble in water but readily dissolves in alcohol.



This glue needs two flat surfaces of the board and neck, any ribbing weakens the bond. Coat both surfaces, make sure they are shiny when you combine them. I hand press them together. The board slides around for a while, then when it is difficult to move I position it and clamp. You can string it up in about 6 hours if  conditions are warm and dry.

To remove a board I brace the bridge end against something, remove the nut, wedge a broad chisel between the two, pulling apart. Cover the inst for when the board releases it flies off. I've used this on 10-15 inst's, had one loosen on its own, some minor splinters occasionally on others, but  none to the neck.